Day 8: the promise of more German food and gothic architecture was the driving force to my rising today. Had my eyes been left to their own devices I may have stayed in bed all afternoon. Man and I headed to the Alter Markt in hopes of my favorite open air street markets, I quickly discovered that just because something is called a "market" doesn't mean there is a market there. There was the old market, the new market, the hay market none of which held true to my previously adopted definition of market. I adjusted because I found kebab :) then a pretzel, a bienenstich- almond covered cocnut cream filled slice if cake-, streusel, and then finally a Danish. It should be known I only had half of each of these, albeit I could have eaten the whole. We wandered back to the Dom and for the second time this trip I found myself winded as I hefted myself up 533 stairs. Note to self a full water bottle, 2 camera lenses, guide books, and some 2lbs of gummis make it more difficult. Next time one lens, water can wait. I am not sure what was better the view from the top or the incredible detail you were met with outside the small windows as you flumped up the stairs. The bells rang as we climbed and from time to time a random doorway offered time to catch ones breath. the trek down of course proved simpler and at the end you were guided to the interior. Stained glass and ceilings to the heavens did a wonderful job of making you feel so tiny and rather ugly. Little nooks of candle lit saints harbored pods of people praying and taking a moment or two to rest from the world. Relics and statues and bits of gold were at every bend, and amazement upon amazement, I saw the ribs and walking stick of St. Peter today! My pilgrimage is complete I may return to DC in peace. Snitzel by the Rhine was the next course. Now this may sound surreal but add thick cigarette smoke, rowdy German men speaking German with added English profanities, and about 17 bachelor/bachelorette parties parading through and then you have the complete picture...I loved every minute. One more church built over a recently excavated roman training center, a bronze statue who's nose you rub for luck, and one last stroll by the Dom and the evening in Koeln was almost over. We headed back to the hotel area which we had thought was desolate but upon nightfall bars and cafes popped up all over and it became quite the spot. We found a great bruehaus to dine at (they usually have the best food) the item I wanted wasn't available so our salty waiter smacked the menu, pointing quickly at 2 suggestions neither of which had an English translation, and waited for my answer...I pointed in the general direction of the first choice, Gable nodded and the waiter was off. "what did I just order?" "I don't know something with pork." Man and I waited to see what my mystery dinner would be....a giant plate of boiled purple cabbage, steamed herb dumplings, and an entire pork leg 1kg worth we dropped in front of me. Take that Disney with your turkey legs, you just got owned by Germany . Oh the wonder of pig skin, pig meat and cabbage. Why must my stomach capacity fail me now! Between the two of us we demolished our dishes and went to bed fat and happy, but not before I locked myself in the bathroom for a good hour. The smoke and humidity had smashed dirt and gunk and grime into every pore and this hotel had a bathtub that had been calling my name since our arrival. Bubbles, close to scalding water, a tub long enough for me to stretch out in, and a good hour later and I was in fine shape. Man had been watching celebrity auto soccer. Gotta love German programing, imagine 2 VW golfs, one giant blowup ball and 2 soccer-esque goals. It was soccer meets demolition derby with German celebrities behind the wheel and it was pretty great. First tv in 8 days and it did not disappoint. Tomorrow back to Amsterdam.